Glossary of terms

Alloy

A term used to describe the mixture of two or more metals. For example, rose gold is an alloy of yellow gold and copper.

Bangle

A rigid bracelet designed to slip over the hand. However, some bangle designs do feature clasps.

Bezel Setting

A metal rim that surrounds the gemstone to secure it in place by the girdle. The bezel setting style is secure, but does not block light from entering the stone and creating brilliance.

Cabochon cut

Method of cutting gemstones with a convex, rounded surface that is polished but unfaceted.

Carats

A unit of a gemstone weight, equivalent to 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams.

Claw Setting

A setting in which metal prongs, or claws, hold the gemstone in a setting. Also called prong setting. Other setting styles include bezel, channel, bar channel, and more.

Clarity

Almost all gemstones contain inclusions. Even those most highly prized have at least some inclusions. Flawless gemstones are very rare and very expensive. The best value is found in gems that are lightly to moderately included. Emeralds are typically treated with colourless oil, wax or resin to minimize surface-reaching inclusions.

Colour

The jewellery industry recognizes the highest quality gemstones by the purity of their hue, the depth of tone, and the colour saturation. The best value is in colours that include "slight" traces of other colours, are not too light or dark, and have a lot of saturated colour. GUALY offers a wide variety of the highest-quality coloured gemstones.

Culet

The facet or point at the bottom of the pavilion of a gemstone. It is sometimes listed as a facet and would, for example, increase the number of facets listed for a round brilliant diamond from 57 to 58. Because medium to large culets may have an impact on a diamond's light performance, the preferred culet grades for a round diamond range from none to small. Culets in the preferred grades are generally undetectable to the unaided eye.

Cut

Unlike diamonds, with gemstones there isn't an "ideal" cut geometrically configured for maximum brilliance. But a high-quality gemstone cut is one that presents the most even colour, exposes the fewest inclusions, and displays the majority of the gemstone weight when set in jewellery.

Depth of a gemstone

The height of a gemstone measured from the culet to the table.

Engrave

To decorate by carving a design with hand tools, a stamping press, or drill. Also refers to the practice of inscribing a dedication or monogram.

Enhancements

Treatments that are an accepted part of the process of gemstone cutting and polishing, such as heating. Nearly all gemstones today, including GUALY stones, have been treated to enhance their colour. The most common methods of treatment are heating, nearly always seen with aquamarine, citrine, amethyst, sapphire, ruby and tanzanite, bleaching commonly seen with pearls, and irradiation performed on nearly all blue topaz.

Fluorescence

A reaction to UV light. Fluorescence is graded from None to Very Strong. A fluorescence grade of Very Strong can make a diamond with a near-colourless grade look even whiter and could, in some very rare instances, give the diamond a slight hazy or oily appearance. Diamonds with a strong or very strong fluorescence are a better value for the end customer because the market prices them slightly lower than diamonds with faint or negligible fluorescence.

Gemstone Size

A gemstone's size is represented by its diameter, length, or width (in millimetres). Though gemstones can also be measured by carat weight , the varying densities of different gemstones make this an inaccurate way to judge size.

Inclusion

A trace mineral, fracture, or other imperfection that contributes to the unique fingerprint of a gemstone. All but the rarest gemstones contain inclusions, which are created during the gemstones' formation in the earth.

Gold

Gold is a yellow, noble metal used to create jewellery for centuries. It is valued for its beauty, strength and malleability. Gold will never tarnish, rust, or corrode. While naturally yellow, various alloys are commonly added to pure gold to harden it and, in some cases create other colours, like white gold and rose gold.

There are two systems to mark gold purity for jewellery: Karat or number system

Gold jewellry pieces are officially required to be stamped with the correspondent gold purity (either in karats or mill proportion). GUALY gold jewels are stamped with 750 (75.0% gold), corresponding to 18 karat gold.

Mohs hardness scale

A scale developed by Friedrich Mohs to determine the relative hardness of minerals and other objects. The scale assigns the numbers 1 to 10 to specific minerals, softest to hardest respectively, using a scratch test. For reference, the average fingernail has a Mohs hardness of about 2.5, while the average knife rates a hardness of 5.5. Diamonds rate a 10.

Mother-of-pearl

The iridescent lining of an oyster shell, often inset in jewellery.

Nacre

The crystalline substance secreted by an oyster to form a pearl. The microscopic crystals of nacre (pronounced nay-ker) refract light to produce a pearl's colour and lustre.

Natural Gems

Gemstones which occur naturally as part of a geological formation, as opposed to being created in a laboratory.

Colour, Clarity, Cut, Size and Enhancement are the five essential characteristics of gemstone quality.

Opaque

Description of a gemstone that blocks light from passing through. It could be due to the number of inclusions or flaws, or it could simply be a characteristic of the gemstone; opals, for example, exhibit varying degrees of opacity.

Palladium

A lightweight and hypoallergenic metal that is a member of the platinum family. It is used as an alloy in platinum jewellery as well as used to create palladium jewellery. It is a true white metal which means it maintains its white colour forever. Palladium bands are stamped with "Pall 950."

Pavé Setting

From the French word for pavement, these stones are set low and very close, so that the surface appears to be paved with gemstones. Pavé settings most commonly feature diamonds, but any gemstone may be used.

Pavilion

The bottom portion of a gemstone, extending from the girdle to the culet.

Polishing

The process of creating a smooth and shiny surface by rubbing it or using a chemical action, leaving a surface with significant specular reflection and minimal diffuse reflection. In silver and gold this process usually happens by finishing of metal surfaces with a compound impregnated in the surfaces of a hard fabric-faced wheel which rotates at high speed.

Karat

Measurement of the purity of gold. Pure gold is too soft to support every-day wear, so it is alloyed with a mixture of metals like silver, copper, and zinc to give it strength and durability. Products made from gold are marked to show how much actual gold is contained in the product:

There are two systems to mark gold purity for jewellery: Karat or number system.

GUALY uses 18 karat gold, with a 750 stamp.

Ring Size

A measurement, generally determined by two factors: the diameter of the finger on which the ring will be worn, and of the knuckle, which the ring must slip over comfortably. There are different measurement systems and GUALY uses the European System, with sizes ranging from 46 till 65.

Rhodium

Rhodium is a precious metal, meaning non-oxidizing and white in colour, member of the Platinum Group of metals. The Platinum Group of Metals is a group of six metals: platinum, rhodium, palladium, ruthenium, osmium, and iridium.  These six metals all share some common physical properties: high melting points, high density, high hardness and they are all very resistant to corrosion.

This metal alloy is commonly applied as an incredibly hard, protective coating to sterling silver and white gold. This coating offers the advantages of making these white metals even whiter, and preventing silver from tarnishing.

Ruthenium

Ruthenium is a very rare, hard, lustrous, brittle, silvery-white metal that does not tarnish at room temperature. The metal is unaffected by air, water and acids and it is used to harden platinum and palladium to create more wear-resistant jewellry, preventing silver from tarnishing.

Setting

Setting is the general term for the way a gemstone is attached to the piece of jewellery.

Shank

The part of the ring that encircles the finger. Strictly speaking, the shank of the ring does not include the head.

Size

The carat weight of a gemstone is not necessarily an accurate gauge for gemstone size. To help you judge the size of a gemstone, GUALY lists the diameter of gemstone when viewed from above, when relevant, since if the gemstone is set in jewellery this is the only part of the gemstone that is visible.

Solitaire

Solitaire is the general description of a single diamond or gemstone, mounted alone on the band. The setting varieties could include bezel, prong, or other styles.

Sparkle

A common term used to describe the fire and scintillation displayed in a diamond.

Sterling Silver

Sterling silver is the standard for beautiful high-quality silver jewellery. It is over 90% pure silver, mixed with alloys to add strength and durability.

Pure silver, also called fine silver, is relatively soft, very malleable, and easily damaged, so it is commonly combined with other metals to produce a more durable product. The most popular of these alloys is sterling silver, which consists of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent copper.

Silver is stable in pure air and water, but tarnishes when it is exposed to air or water containing ozone or hydrogen sulphide to form a black layer of silver sulphide.

GUALY jewels are produced with a special alloy that prevents oxidation and guarantees long term durability. A top quality Rhodium or Ruthenium bath, equally used in white gold fine jewellery, guarantees the enduring beauty and shine of your jewel.

Stud Earrings

A simple earring style featuring a single gemstone, pearl, or metal ball set on a straight post.

Synthetic Gemstones

Gemstones produced in laboratory. They have the same chemical composition as their natural counterparts and are much less expensive. The most common gems to be synthesized are emeralds, rubies, sapphires and opals. GUALY does not carry synthetic gemstones.

Table

The largest facet of a gemstone, located on the top of the gemstone, through which refracted light escapes as brilliance.

Wedding Ring

A ring which is exchanged during the wedding ceremony. It is traditionally made of precious metal and has the same width all the way around. Whether or not the wedding band matches the engagement ring is a personal preference.